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From the book: Reason 8 – The Northern Peak

Chapter from the book "23 Reasons to Fall in Love with Hangzhou", written by Natasa Vujicic


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The Lingyin Temple is an absolute must if you are coming to Hangzhou. It is completely fascinating, from the ancient caves to the magnificent Buddha covered in golden leaves. I cannot find the words to actually describe this place. Lingyin Temple looks like the remaining wonder of a lost civilization, only the civilization is not lost—it is right there all around you and has existed for the last 1,700 years. This extraordinary place is settled between the misty tea hills and a lake, encircled with inscriptions and Buddha statues, worshipped by the monks in orange robes, surrounded by the smoke of burning incense. You get my point, right? You will find this marvelous temple, and everything about it, in most tourist guides.

Therefore, please make sure the temple itself is not the end of your exploration. Very near the Lingyin Temple stands the Northern Peak (北高峰). You can climb to the top if you are fit, or you can take the cable car if you are like me. The cable car, as well as the viewing platform at the top, will offer an amazing view over the lake. But it is not only the elevation of over 300 meters above sea level that makes this place so special. It is the combination of the fact that the temple is dedicated to God of Wealth (which I find very practical), the pure enjoyment at the sight of the beautifully decorated dark window frames against the warm yellow walls of the temple, and the fact that you can ring the bell positioned right at the entrance.

Pass the Laughing Golden Buddha and the courtyard with red ribbons hanging from above and head straight to reach the last chamber. It houses a seriously frightening (yet colorfully dressed) God of Wealth Zhao Gong Ming (赵公明) at the entrance.

As you are coming back toward the courtyard, you will notice a room on your right. In this room you can make a wish, draw a piece of paper (求签) from the box, and then speak to the monk, who will give you advice (解签) on what to do to make your wish come true. Most people come here to pray for wealth; this is what the temple specializes in.

Then comes the most memorable part: ringing the bell. The bell is huge, surrounded by thousands of red ribbons with prayers written in gold (许愿带). You will have to raise the hammer with both of your hands (and probably use your whole body to control it), and you can ring it exactly nine times. As you hear one ring fading out and another one chiming in its place, echoing above West Lake, and as you look at those red ribbons holding the hopes and wishes of hundreds of people, you will feel invincible. You will feel you are one with the trees, the hill, with all the people who ever prayed in the temple behind you, and all the people at the foot of the hill who are now listening to the sound you are making. It is a surreal, deeply moving experience. Do not miss it.

Now return to the foot of the hill, toward the Lingyin Temple, and have a bowl of veg noodles.



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